Monday, October 21, 2013

Dia de Cidade!

October 21, 2013

This weekend I returned from my first organization conference in Pemba city.  According to the contract I received from the organization we are supposed to have weeklong conferences once every month in Pemba (the big city in Cabo Delgado province).  From what I understand, we will be lucky if these conferences happen every other month, and more likely they will be once every three months.  But hey, I can’t really complain about a free week in Pemba every few months.  Plus per-diem – but that’s another story.

So I had been pretty excited about going to Pemba for our first conference, not just because Pemba has a beautiful beach, I would have air-conditioning and hot water for a week, or Dia de Cidade was taking place when I would be there.  I was also excited to be in meetings where all the employees of Fundacao Ariel would be present and different ideas would be discussed regarding programming, new regulations, etc.  Rather, what I got was what seemed to be a poorly managed agenda that didn’t really include any of the things I was expecting.  The bulk of the meetings consisted of the Program Officials (those people working in the district capitals to implement Ariel’s strategy) releasing data collected from the previous three months on graphs that made no sense to us volunteers.  (For example, there would be a data point that showed the percentage of pregnant women who were given an HIV test for the first time in their life and the percentage would be 210%.  We still have no idea how that works nor could anyone from Ariel explain to us how you calculate that percentage).  Not to mention we were in the office for close to 10 hours each day. But c’est la vie, right?

So clearly the highlight of the week – in addition to meeting all the full time staff of Ariel – did end up being the AC, hot showers, beach and last, but certainly not least, the celebration that is Dia de Cidade.  As some quick background, every city in Mozambique has a Dia de Cidade (or City Day) where the city government hosts parties, festivals, parades, etc. and the whole city comes out to party.  For a little more background, Montepuez had its Dia de Cidade 2 weeks ago. And. Nothing. Happened.  So out of coincidence, and maybe a little luck, our conference ended up being the same week that Pemba was celebrating Dia de Cidade.  The party was Friday night, on the beach right across the street from our hotel.  There were stages set up for musicians, dancers, entertainers, etc., people crowded the beaches to the point where it was tough to get around in some areas.  But it was more than enough for my first real party in Mozambique.  The highlight of the night has to be the line of 200 women along the street who grilled chicken ALL night (from like 2pm until 4am).  For 10 meticais (or .33 cents) you could get chicken on a stick that had about the same amount of meat as a large chicken wing.  I must have bought 15 of these.  So in all I spent about $5 on chicken and ate more than any person should in one night, but it was so fresh and perfect that I couldn’t resist.  And it was a party so what was I going to do, not eat the delicious chicken?

One of the biggest perks I get going to the conferences in Pemba is the per-diem I receive to cover the cost of living in a hotel and needing to go out to eat for all of my meals.  For each day I am “on business” if you will, I receive 800 meticais, equal to about $25.  So for the week I spent in Pemba, I received about $175 to cover all costs.  And being the resourceful Peace Corps volunteer that I am, I managed to save a good chunk of that money.  (On a related note, volunteers places with Ariel used to receive 1500 meticais per-diem for each day they were on business.  So I could have pulled in close to $350 and that would have been sa-weeeet, but the per-diem changed and such is life.  But I can’t say I’m not happy with receiving what I did.  Perks of working for large NGOs!).

I am now back in Montepuez for one week before I get to go to Maputo for two weeks – one week for an EGPAF training about gender based violence in Mozambique and the following week for Peace Corps’ Reconnect Conference.  To say I’m excited to be going to Maputo would be an understatement.  Maputo is an entirely different world from the rest of Mozambique.  It is more or less a first world city in one of the poorest countries in the world.  Having spent the last 3 months in the poorest province in Mozambique, the prospect of going to Maputo is pretty awesome.  Hopefully this time the conferences will be a little more informative than the last one. 


It’s starting to get really hot here in Moz.  I’m a little jealous of all you guys at home watching the leaves change colors and the fall weather that comes with it.  Sometimes thinking about it, and all of you, help me get through the heat of the days here.  But I do love it.

Arriving in Montepuez!

October 7, 2013

So given that I am the worst blogger ever I will try to bring you up to date on events that have unfolded since I arrived in Montepuez two months ago.

After our swearing in ceremony on August 6 those of us who were placed in the northern part of Mozambique flew to Nampula, the capital of its eponymous province.  There we had a two-day “Supervisor’s Conference” where we met our counterparts and supervisors with whom we will be working for the next two years.  The point of the conference was mostly to lay a foundation of the relationship between Peace Corps and our host organizations.  This is done more as an insurance policy just in case our organizations start getting into any funny business and Peace Corps can say we talked about these policies with you and your volunteer.  For us volunteers, Supervisor’s Conference was more a last two days together than business of any sort so we tried to spend as much time as we could together knowing it would be a few months before we saw one another again.

After Supervisor’s Conference I went to Pemba with my organization, Fundacao Ariel Glaser, for another short conference that served as an introduction to the organization – what they do, what their goals are, where they work, etc.  There were four volunteers placed with Ariel in various parts of Cabo Delgado Province so we got to spend an extra four days with each other.  I’m not sure I really got anything out of the conference, but staying in a hotel with a balcony that overlooks Praia do Wimbi (that’s Wimbi Beach for all the non-Portuguese speakers out there) was a pretty sweet deal.  (And you should totally Google Image ‘Wimbi Beach’ to see what exactly Peace Corps life is all about). 

A little background on Fundacao Ariel.  There is a large American Non-Government Organization called the Elizabeth Glaser Pediatric AIDS Foundation, or EGPAF.  EGPAF was founded in 1988 with the goal of eliminating pediatric AIDS.  Elizabeth Glaser contracted HIV through a blood transfusion in 1981 and passed the virus on to both of her children.  Her daughter, Ariel, contracted HIV through breastfeeding and her son contracted HIV in-utero.  Ariel died of AIDS in 1988 at the age of 4 and thus EGPAF was born.  EGPAF has been working in Mozambique since 2004 in three provinces, Cabo Delgado, Nampula and Gaza.  In 2009, as a part of PEPFAR II (PEPFAR stands for President’s Emergency Plan For AIDS Relief and was started by President Bush in 2003 – arguably the best thing he did as President), President Obama included the goal of transferring HIV/AIDS work to local organizations as a part of USAIDs plan for sustainable development.  Ultimately this will result in Mozambicans taking care of Mozambique’s problems, but the idea is still in its infancy.  One of the first organizations created after this announcement, however, was Fundacao Ariel.  It is 100 percent run by Mozambicans, although they receive almost all of their funding from CDC.  They took over EGPAF’s role in Cabo Delgado in 2010 but maintain a working relationship with EGPAF.  They even use the same logo as EGPAF.  The main work that Ariel and EGPAF do is to get as many HIV+ pregnant women on treatment as possible in order to reduce the probability that she will pass the virus onto her child.  A woman has roughly a 45% chance of passing the virus onto her child if she is not on any treatment, but that number falls to 2% if she is on treatment.  Additionally, in 2012 53% of pregnant women received treatment globally, which is up from just 14% in 2005.  So you can see the importance of receiving treatment and how effective various programs have been implemented worldwide in order to reduce Vertical Transmission.  It’s some pretty cool stuff.  

I finally moved into my house in Montepuez on August 14 and I have to say it is far nicer than I ever thought it would be.  I had heard that I was going to have a mud brick house because that is what the Health volunteer before me had and I was totally fine with that.  But when we pulled up to my house and it was a cement house with two bedrooms, a living room, kitchen, and indoor bathroom I couldn’t help but smile really hard knowing I lucked out with a great house. 

My house in located in Bairro Matuto I.  It is a seriously beautiful neighborhood with small alleys running in every direction and palm trees drape the background no matter which direction you look.  It is a fantastic location for the things I need.  I am a 10 minute walk to the hospital and Community Based Organization (CBO) where I work and 15 minutes to the market, bus station, and the house of the education volunteers in Montepuez. 

One of the things Peace Corps drills into you during training is the importance of integrating into your community.  I swear that by the end of training my least favorite word in the English language was integration because we heard about it every day we were in Namaacha.  I understood that it is definitely an important aspect of my service, but I just felt like it was dwelled upon too often.  That being said, integration is a lot tougher than I thought it was going to be and I now understand why certain aspects of integration were such a huge part of training.  I thought I was going to move into my house and within the first month all of my neighbors would stop by my house, awkwardly introduce themselves and ask me some questions about myself.  If nothing else, I thought this would happen because I am the big white kid living in the neighborhood.  Surprisingly, though, only two people have actually come to my house to introduce themselves.  Although there is a water hose in my front yard where a number of neighborhood women get their water, not one of them has actually stopped to talk to me.  I have tried to say hello and have some small talk with them when I need water myself, but they spend most of their time talking to one another in the local language, Macua (or Makua, Makuah, or the other 12 ways you spell it), so it is really tough to actually insert myself into one of their conversations.  And let’s be honest, I have never really been one for small talk anyway.  Even at home I don’t really enjoy small talk because it all seems so superficial and I think it really arises out of people feeling awkward in silence with another person.   Anyway, I haven’t done the best job integrating into my neighborhood, but it’s only been two months – I’m getting there. 

Switching topics – I spend most of my time working at the Hospital Rural de Montepuez.  It is the major hospital in the Montepuez district where people come if they have more serious issues that cannot be treated at the local health centers in their villages.  I go to the hospital Monday-Thursday and spend most of my time there in the office responsible for statistics, data collection, and patient filing.  I was surprised to learn that the hospital has an online file of all patients it has received since 2000.  I was expecting filing cabinets to be overstuffed, unorganized and unusable, but I was pleasantly surprised to see the online filing.  As for what I do on a day-to-day basis I’m really not sure I can say.  I generally arrive to the hospital 8:30 (which is extremely late compared to when most volunteers start their day, but I am not complaining) and sit in the office for about an hour and until somebody realizes I am there and not doing anything.  (I usually bring my Kindle or a book because I know there is a lot of down time and I’m not always going to be doing something).  I might help someone with something they are working on for an hour or two and then I go back to doing nothing until around 12:30 or 1.  (As an example, I am writing this blog post from my desk in the hospital right now).  By that time if I am still doing nothing I will call it a day and head to the market to buy whatever food or other things I need for the day.  On Friday’s I go to the CBO in Montepuez that receives funding from Ariel, called Associacao de Cuidados Domiciliarios de Montepuez (ACDM).  They mostly do things called “buscas activas” which essentially entail the members of the CBO going into neighborhoods in search of HIV+ people who have abandoned their treatment to try to find out what happened to them and convince them to restart treatment.  Each member of the CBO is also responsible for weekly visits to different HIV+ people who are on treatment to see how they are doing, ask if they need any support or help, and reinforce the fact that they need to continue taking their medication.  It’s some pretty intense stuff, but it is definitely reassuring to know that there are organizations out there doing what they can to help those people most neglected by their own society.

In the next few weeks there are a lot of exciting things happening.  Next week I will be going to Pemba for the first official conference with Ariel.  We are supposed to have monthly conferences in Pemba to discuss what we have been working on, what we should be doing, how to go about different things, etc.  It’s a good way for everyone in the province to hear about what different people are doing and what they have found to be effective.  I highly doubt the meetings will happen every month, but even if I were to go to Pemba for a full week every other month, accommodation and per diem included, that would be a pretty sweet deal. 
The first week of November is the first big Peace Corps conference for those of us in Moz 20. (I don’t know if I explained before, but every new group is given a number that corresponds to which group they are in that particular country and I am a part of the 20th group of volunteers in Mozambique).  There are three official Peace Corps conferences where everyone in Moz 20 gets together to get away from site, see their fellow volunteers, and talk about all the stressors that no one at site can really understand.  So November 3 I will be leaving for Maputo for the entire week and I will see all the people in Moz 20 who I last saw the first week of August.  I’m really looking forward to it and it should be a great time.

After I return from Maputo I will have about a month in Montepuez before the holidays in Mozambique start.  From what I understand the whole country more or less shuts down between December 15 and January 15 so it will be nice again to have some free time and the opportunity to visit some other volunteers at their sites and see different parts of the country.